Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama City

Dogo Onsen is the oldest hot spring in Japan, and a special bath for the royal family. According to legend, a white heron once dipped its injured leg into the spring’s warm waters and was miraculously healed. White herons can be seen on the pillars around Dogo Onsen, on yukata worn by guests, and most famously on the roof. The onsen building is delightful, an island of ornate wood and tile in a sea of concrete and asphalt.

Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama City

Dogo Onsen was the inspiration for the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away. Just as in the movie, it is an enchanting place to visit. (If you haven’t seen the film, rent, borrow, or buy a copy. It’s very good.)

Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama City

For ¥250 you can go for a guided tour of the onsen, but unless you are very shy or have tattoos, there are far better options. For just ¥400 you can bathe in the Kami-no-Yu bath. For ¥800 you can bathe in the Kami-no-Yu bath and follow this with tea and senbei. The best option is for ¥1200 yen, where you can bathe in the special Tama-no -Yu bath (and then the Kami-no-Yu bath) before enjoying your tea and senbei.