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The Nago Bypass and Beyond

A couple of weeks ago I dropped in at the Yanbaru Sangyo Festival in Nago which showcases business in northern Okinawa. I made contact with a few local farmers and other small businesses that produce unique Okinawan products. Hopefully I will meet them again when writing or shooting magazine articles.

Another aspect of the festival was showing current and future development plans in the region. Of biggest interest to me were plans for the expansion of the Nago bypass

Completed and under construction sections of Nago Bypass

Completed and under construction sections of Nago Bypass

In the image above we see the Nago bypass. Currently, after leaving the expressway at Kyoda you drive north along the coast on the 58, then take a right at the Blue Seal / Mcdonalds junction as you enter Nago. At the next traffic light you turn left onto the new bypass. The image however also shows that the south end of the bypass will eventually join back to the 58. The yellow section of road is a further possible overwater extension connecting the bypass with the expressway. (This could also be done overland) In this situation the bypass would become a continuation of the expressway.

Possible overwater Kyoda to Bypass Link

Possible overwater Kyoda to Bypass Link

An even larger proposal is for the bypass to continue along the center of the Motobu peninsular to Bise just north of the Aquarium ( and potentially Universal Studios Okinawa.)

Possible extension to Nago Bypass

Possible extension to Nago Bypass

And if budgets stretched you could finish off with new bridge across to Ie Island.

Possible Ie Island Bridge

Possible Ie Island Bridge

It is a fascinating look into a possible future for Okinawa. Tourism is a huge part of the Okinawan economy and this is going to increase over the next few years and decades as international tourism increases and the U.S. military presence is reduced. Hopefully the government will be able to manage the economic, social, and environmental  issues that this will create.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

October 25th is Karate Day in Okinawa, at 6AM members of several dojos gathered at Zakimi Castle to perform 100 kata (set forms).

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

There were representatives of many different styles of karate.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

The event was hosted by James of the DOJO Bar, and Arakaki sensei gave the opening words of encouragement.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

It was great to see so many nationalities, ages, and ranks taking part.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

After performing 100 kata of their own styles. Everyone gathered together and performed a single kata at the same time. The group size wasn’t big enough to break a world record this year, but that’s just something to achieve another time.

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

See you all next year!

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

100 Kata for Karate Day at Zakimi Castle

If you’d like a copy of the group pic you can download it for free HERE.

Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown – Okinawa

Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown

Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown

Last week CNN aired an Okinawa episode of the travel show Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown.

Anthony Bourdain in Okinawa - Dojo Bar James

Anthony Bourdain in Okinawa – Dojo Bar James

I worked on the show for a couple of weeks before Anthony arrived helping set up some of the interviews, locations and  arrange permits. This mainly involved driving around the island, making a lot of phone calls and having interesting meetings.

IMG_1219

Pre shooting visit to King Tacos

Anthony Bourdain, famous as a straight talking, hard living chef has recently become passionate about jiu jitsu. He was therefore extremely interested in the martial arts heritage of Okinawa. This is why karate and Okinawan sumo featured so much in the episode.

James Pankiewicz of the DOJO bar in Naha is the guy performing kobudo on the beach. I was taking photos of the 100 Kobudo event while the camera guys were getting B-roll footage for the show.

100 Kobudo Kata Event, Kira Kira Beach, Okinawa

100 Kobudo Kata Event, Kira Kira Beach, Okinawa

James was also the man showing Anthony around the Makishi Market in Naha, the beach wrestling on Kume Island, Hokama sensei’s dojo, and the Dojo bar itself in the concluding scenes. The DOJO Bar is a great place to visit, or you can see James and several hundred other karateka at the 100 Kata Event in the grounds of Zakimi Castle from 6AM on Sunday 25th October 2015.

Tetsuhiro Hokama

James’ pic of Tetsuhiro Hokama with his Karate Masters Portrait Project Book 🙂

Yuki, my wife, worked with the crew and Anthony as an interpreter. She even made it into the show as woman buying sandwiches at Lawson 🙂

Anthony Bourdain in Okinawa - Yuki at Lawson

Anthony Bourdain in Okinawa – Yuki at Lawson

Other scenes and interviews never made it into the show simply because they had too much good stuff. There was a really interesting reenactment of an Okinawan family hiding in a cave in Yomitan, but it was cut and archival footage was used in its place.

IMG_1271

On location with the Parts Unknown Crew

Overall a fascinating experience working on a TV show. I never got to meet Anthony, but I heard he had a great time. Look out for the episode on CNN!

The World’s Biggest Tug-of-War, Naha City, Okinawa October 11, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

The world’s biggest Tug-of-War was held once again in Naha City on October 11, 2015. The rope begins in two halves, stretched along the center of Highway 58. Banners are carried along Kokusai Street and then held aloft between the ropes. Representatives of the East and West sections of the rope perform karate kata. Firecrackers are lit deafening those close.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

After speeches from the Governor of Okinawa, and this year the Governor of Hawaii. The ropes are dragged together.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

The ends of the ropes are designed to loop one over the other.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Numerous men with poles push the ropes as they are drawn together until they are intertwined.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

The giant wooden connecting pin is then brought to the rope.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Around a dozen men hep lift the pin and thread it through the rope.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Although it does take a little wiggling.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Once the pin is in the ropes are drawn apart locking the pin in place.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

The kings of the East and West are carried along the rope then challenge each other to battle.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Karate masters from East and West meet atop the center of the rope to trade (gentle) blows.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

The tug-of-war begins.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Pull!

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Pull!

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

As the rope moves towards the east, officials use a tape measure to check on progress.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

East is declared the winner.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

After brief celebrations the outer part of the rope is cut up into souvenirs of the event.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Young and old head home with a little piece of straw rope and great memories of the day.

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Naha Tug of War October 11th, 2015

Godzilla – Nissan GTR

Nissan GTR

Nissan GTR

A fun shoot with another Japanese icon. The Nissan GTR is a technological marvel, able to make far more expensive European and American supercars look archaic and sluggish.

Nissan GTR

Nissan GTR

Shot with the 645Z and 25mm lens. Shutter speed was kept relatively slow at 1/125 to show motion on the road. A huge thanks to Michael for bringing his beast to the shoot.

Nissan GTR

Nissan GTR

Beyond the Dojo – Tsuneo Shimabukuro at Katsuren Castle, Okinawa

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Another in the Beyond the Dojo series shot with Shimabukuro sensei at Katsuren Castle. The castle is a very important place for him. On January 1st he holds the first training session of the year within its walls. His grandmother was also one of the noro (priestesses) that would lead prayers at the castle shrines.

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Shot with the Pentax 645Z and 25mm lens. Profoto B1 strobe with white softlight reflector.

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro  島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro, 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate and 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo. Photographed as part of the Karate Masters Portrait Project on September 16th, 2015.

Tsuneo Shimabukuro  島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Photographed using the Pentax 645Z, 90mm lens, Profoto 7a generator with pro-head in a white softlight reflector.

Tsuneo Shimabukuro  島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro  島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Tsuneo Shimabukuro 島袋 常雄 9th-dan Uechi-ryu Karate, 9th-dan Ryukyu Kobudo

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, Ogimi, Okinawa

Yesterday, Shioya Ungami was held in Shioya Bay on the north west coast of the main island of Okinawa. Shioya is part of Ogimi village which is famous for having one of the longest living populations in the world.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

The festival begins with prayers and then the men of the village race dragon boats across the bay. The only woman in the boat is a yuta which is a local priestess. When the dragon boat arrived at the beach, the yuta was carried across the water so she didn’t get her feet and clothes wet.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Many of the ladies and girls of the village wade into the water to sing and bang drums as encouragement for the dragon boat racers. They also stopped and prayed after the arrival of the first set of boats.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

The boats then raced back across the bay again as the ladies sang and waved.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

After the races the singing and dancing continued. Many of those laughing and bounding around were in their seventies and eighties. Many of the spectators were even older.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

The soaked clothing, towels, and straw crowns  were hung out to dry on the stone walls of the village.

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

Shioya Ungami Sea Festival, an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, Shioya Bay, Ogimi Village, Okinawa

There are many reasons why the people of Ogimi have such long lives, but one is community spirit. Ungami is such a positive, happy event for everyone young and old. Their lives are not just long, but also filled with dancing, singing and laughter. The world has much to learn from this tiny Okinawan village.

Wide angle portraits – Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai photographed for my Beyond the Dojo project on the beach in Heshikiya, Katsuren, Okinawa.

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai Training on Heshikiya Beach, Katsuren, Okinawa. 德村 賢昌  範士九段   琉球伝統古武術保存武道協会

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

These images were all shot with the Pentax 645Z paired with the 25mm wide-angle lens. A Profoto B1 strobe with a white softlight reflector was used for off camera flash.

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai Training on Heshikiya Beach, Katsuren, Okinawa. 德村 賢昌  範士九段   琉球伝統古武術保存武道協会

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

I’m really enjoying shooting these wide-angle portraits. The kobudo weapons when held towards the lens give a wonderful depth to the images.

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai Training on Heshikiya Beach, Katsuren, Okinawa. 德村 賢昌  範士九段   琉球伝統古武術保存武道協会

Kensho Tokumura, Hanshi 9th-dan Ryukyu Dento Kobujutsu Hozon Budo Kyokai

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Preparations

Obon (or bon) is a traditional festival to honor the spirits of ancestors. In Okinawa families often have picnics at the tombs where the remains of previous generations were laid to rest.

Eisa are traditional Okinawan folk dances usually performed during Obon. There are huge commercial gatherings of dancers such as the All-Okinawa Eisa Festival in Koza, but small local events take place all over the prefecture.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Drink!

Last weekend I drove down to Heshikiya on the Katsuren peninsular to photograph their local eisa event. The dances begin around dusk, but I like to arrive early to get some portraits and preparation shots before the event begins.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – It burns!

At the Heshikiya Eisa all dancers are 25 years old or younger. As with many parts of Japanese life there is a clear hierarchy of members, and as with many of these hierachies
it is based on age. In this group, the oldest  take on the senior chondara roles (black jacket). Next are the chondara with the traditional brown and white costume, and then the younger drummers. Women can also take part, here they were accompanying dancers. (At other events there are also female drummers.)

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Sad Chondara

Once ready they guys passed around some drinks which judging by the reactions of those who downed their cup was probably neat awamori (Okinawan Thai-rice sake / rocket fuel)

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Happy Chondara

The Heshikiya Eisa has an unusually large number of chondara. In some Eisa groups there is a single chondara whose role is a mixture of conductor, cheerleader, and clown.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Drummer Boys

At the Heshikiya Eisa the chondara were the stars of the show performing their own dances.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Dance by the senior chondara

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa – Dance by the senior chondara

As the sun set, the locals gathered around one of the shrines and all the drummers began to dance. Once finished they would move on and perform again in another part of the village.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

As I walked away from the shrine, another group of dancers were preparing to perform with their own colorful chondara to lead them.

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa

Heshikiya Eisa, Katsuren, Okinawa