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Island Icons – Motorcycle Police
Ryukyu Riders
Katsue Oshiro and Matsuri Kuniyoshi are Okinawa’s two female police motorcyclists.
Why did you become motorcycle police officers?
K.O. “I joined the police force because I wanted a career that would let me help others. When I got to choose my specialty, I decided to become a motorcycle officer, even though I’d never ridden a bike before. It looked like such a cool thing to do as a career.”
M.K. “I rode a motorbike when I was in high school, and even got caught by the police a couple of times. I decided that I wanted to ride bikes for a living, and joined the police with the one goal of becoming a motorcycle police officer.”
What special training do police riders receive?
“The police bikes we use are 750cc Honda VFR’s. Once you’ve added sirens, lights, speakers and panniers, they become quite large and heavy. We do a lot of training to improve our maneuverability on the bikes. We have to be able to turn them around in tight spaces and weave through traffic. We’re also trained to ride fast; on the expressway we sometimes get up to 140 kilometers an hour to catch speeding vehicles.”
When you start the sirens and flashing lights, do some vehicles refuse to pull over?
“It doesn’t happen very often, but if they don’t stop we follow them until they either give up or lose control of the vehicle.”
What are the main problems that you have to deal with?
“Motorists in Okinawa are getting a lot better about using their seat belts, but now we have a big problem with people using their cellular phones while they are driving. Motorbike riders need to wear helmets that are fitted properly, and chinstraps must be fastened. We also have to deal with people who have made illegal modifications to their car by adding extra-wide tires or exhaust systems that are not designed for their vehicle.
In general, people need to relax and drive more safely. If everyone sticks to the rules then we’ll have fewer accidents on Okinawa.”
Why are roads on Okinawa so slippery when wet?
Older Okinawan roads, especially those in the northern part of the island, had coral rock mixed into the asphalt. These roads can get very slippery. Newer roads in Okinawa are built with higher quality asphalt so they give more grip. It’s still common sense, however, to slow down when the road is wet.
Have you ever seen the TV show CHiPs that’s about the Californian Highway Patrol motorcycle police?
We’ve never seen it, but our boss, Taba-san, is a big fan of Francis “Ponch” Poncherello.

"Shirobai Chase" by Simon http://www.tensimon.com
(Interview first published in Okinawa Living Magazine April 2006)
On the bookshelf: A Shadow Falls
A Shadow Falls is a impressive book. Impressive in its physical size (nearly 16 x 13 inches). Impressive in its vision (vast African savanas). Impressive in its goals (to memorialize the vanishing natural grandeur of East Africa).
The images are stunning. The tritone plates have a mesmerizing quality to them. Although the shots of elephants are perhaps the most famous examples of his work I found the images of the wildebeest migration the most powerful.
Enjoy.
The Fall
The Fall is a fascinating movie, particularly for those with an interest in photography or film.
The director, Tarsem, has a background in commercials and music videos, which may have lead to his strong visual style. In fact, the theme of the movie appears to be about the power of images and storytelling. The movie begins with a stunning steam train sequence in black and white. It then splits into two clear parts, the muted reality of life in a hospital and the saturated surealism of the storyteller’s tale.
There is an interesting scene in the hospital where light streams through a keyhole projecting the inverted silhouette of a horse on the wall. On one level the director may have just enjoyed demonstrating a naturally occurring camera obscura, or it might have been to lead the viewer into thoughts about our perceptions of reality. The highlight of the hospital scenes is the 8 year old Catinca Untaru who is perhaps the best child actor I have seen.
The images from the story are stunning. Filmed over 4 years in 18 different countries, I got the impression that the director had gone through his collection of National Geographic magazines, and created a shot list of impressive locations to shoot a movie. Another influence of the director is even clearer, the movie Baraka that I discussed in a earlier post here. The scenes of Balinese chanting and Sufi whirling in The Fall appeared to be copied from (pay homage to) similar scenes in Baraka.
The movie has its flaws, but is well worth watching.
Enjoy.
Island Icon – Fashion Designer Kanna Yamauchi
A Sense of Style
It was during a visit to Paris when Kanna Yamauchi originally decided she would become a fashion designer. Some may say it was inevitable and that a sense of style was in her blood – her mother has been one of Okinawa’s top designers for more than thirty years. Upon her return to Okinawa, Kanna quit her job as a tour guide, enrolled in fashion art college, and hasn’t looked back. Now age 32, Kanna has received several design awards, gained prefectural sponsorship, and set up her own company, Yokang.
Where do the ideas for your designs come from?
“I grew up in Yanaburu; it’s very rural so you’re always surrounded by nature. The mountains, trees, ocean and flowers of Okinawa have all influenced the patterns in my clothes. When designing a new article, I think about the structure of the dress or shirt, and then work out which material and pattern will best fit that particular piece.
While studying at college, I spent my afternoons helping my mother make clothes and iron fabric. I guess it influenced me, but my own designs tend to be more functional than my mother’s and aimed at a younger market.
I also appreciate the work of some foreign designers like John Galliano. He uses materials and colors that are similar to those found in Okinawan clothing. Before he was famous, Galliano spent a lot of time ironing clothes for other designers, so I feel we are traveling similar paths.
Who buys your clothes?
Above all, it tends to be people with a real love of Okinawa. They like to have uniquely Okinawan designs, and want to support smaller businesses, like ours, that produce such items. We distribute to about forty stores at the moment, but we are now making contacts with boutiques in other countries. We’ll soon be selling Yokang designs in London and Copenhagen. We’re also starting to develop a following with celebrities; my clothes have been worn by Okinawan models Yamada Yu and Yukie Nakama, and even some Hong Kong movie stars.
What are your plans for the future?
As each item is handmade, I never expect the company to become huge. I think making clothes is at its most satisfying when you are creating tailor-made pieces. I like to be able to spend time meeting and getting to know the client. I love to discuss ideas then create the exact thing they want, whether it is an outfit for a wedding or something more casual.
At the moment ten percent of our designs use traditional bingata printing methods and ninety percent is done using stencils and an airbrush. Using an airbrush is faster and enables more people to afford traditional Ryukyu designs. In the future, however, I hope to spend more time printing with the traditional techniques.
If you could design an outfit for any person who would it be?
I would love to create clothes for Madonna. She’s been a style icon for decades, from her outrageous Jean-Paul Gaultier brassieres through to cowboy chic. Once when I was an elementary student, I went to school dressed like her. I was sent straight home by the principal. I guess not everyone shares my love of fashion.
(Interview first published in Okinawa Living Magazine March 2006)
Santa Scuba
Island Icons – Artist Naka Bokunen
Bokunen was born on the small Okinawan island of Izena in 1953. As a child, he always carried a sketchbook, and drew pictures of the island’s creatures and landscapes. At that time, he never imagined a career as an artist, and thought he would become either a fisherman or a carpenter. His talent, however, did not go unnoticed. One of his teachers recommended that he attend an art-based high school on the main island of Okinawa. After graduation, Bokunen became a graphic designer and set up his own design production company, Project Core.
It is his skills as a woodblock artist that have gained him them most recognition. His colorful, dream-like prints were used for the Kyoto Climate Conference in 1997, the G8 Summit in 2000, and in numerous exhibitions across Japan.
What process do you go through to create the prints?
“I begin with a vague idea of what the image will be like, but as soon as I start to carve the wood, things change. The whole process is very fluid, almost like someone is working through me. I’m not creating the image directly on the paper, but in the wood which I’ll then print from. Because of this, I feel the process has an almost spiritual quality. You’re never quite sure what’s going to happen.
Once the woodblock is finished, I spread black ink on the surface of the wood, and then press it against the paper. The black and white print is a mirror image of the carving in the wood. I then turn the paper over and paint in the colors on the back of the paper. This reverse coloring technique gives the process its name: uratesaishoku. Traditional woodblock prints, such as the tsunami by Katsushika Hokusai, use another technique called ukiyo-e. Ukiyo-e uses a different woodblock for each color and all are applied to the front of the paper. Painting from the back keeps the blacks dark and vivid, and gives my prints their distinctive style.”
Do you now work exclusively with woodblocks?
“Not at all. I sometimes do sculptures such as the bronze mermaid at Moon Beach. I also do pen and ink designs, which I print as lithographs then paint with watercolors. Woodblocks, though, are my favorite method. I love the process of carving the image; it’s unlike anything else.”
What are your main artistic influences?
“The greatest influence comes from the things around me: Okinawa’s plants, animals, people, ocean and mountains. I also want to do more traveling, as whenever you make a connection with a place or a person, you get inspired, and it is this inspiration I can then channel into my work
I like the paintings of Van Gogh and Picasso. Some people say that my prints remind them of Chagall because the women in my pictures seem to be flying through the sky.
The other person who has inspired me is Shiko Munakata. He was the first to use the uratesaishoku technique in Japan, and was one of this country’s great 20th century artists.”
As nature is you main inspiration, do you worry about the future of the environment?
“Of course. I believe that the power of life lies hand in hand with the power of nature. I do not directly campaign for environmental protection, but I hope that, through my work, people will see the beauty of Okinawa, and not want to lose it.”
A lot of your creations include images of women or mermaids, but there don’t seem to be any men?
“I think that women are the spiritual heart of life. In Okinawa, they also have the special roles of kaminchu and yuta, priestess and shaman. To some this female power is known as Gaia, others call it Mother Nature. When I begin to draw or carve, the images just come naturally from my subconscious. Maybe, I just spend more time thinking about women than I do about men.”
(Interview first published in Okinawa Living Magazine February 2006)
Fast cars, slow roads.
A Japanese motoring website just reviewed the much anticipated Nissan GTR specV sports car. The V-spec is the faster, lighter version of what was already one of the fastest sports cars on the planet.
The video however is a great example of the paradox for sports cars in Japan: fast cars, slow roads.
Speed limits in Japan are surprisingly low. In cities the maximum is usually 40 or 50 kilometers an hour. Toll-road expressways have speed limits of 100 kph ( and in Okinawa only 80 kph). In rural areas of Japan the low speed limits continue. Unlike Britain where country roads often have 60 mile per hour limits, many deserted rural roads are still restricted to 40 kilometers an hour. Unless you live close to a track the Nissan GTR specV is simply all dressed up with nowhere to go.
The motoring journalist in the video however happily hurtles along past signs and road markings for 50 kilometers an hour. This disregard for the speed limit isn’t unusual, it’s epidemic. If you simply drive with the flow of traffic you will usually be traveling 10 or 20 kilometers over the limit. The speed limits are not rigidly enforced, although there are a limited number of speed cameras and unmarked police cars on the toll-road expressways.
So what is the solution? Raise speed limits on roads then vigorously enforce the new limits with speed cameras and more police? Or should we follow the advice of another friend of mine and reduce speed limits until it’s just as fast to go everywhere by bicycle or bus.
As for the GTR specV, I’d love one, right after I buy my own racetrack.
The Windows 7 Whopper
This news is a little outdated but from the 22nd to the 28th of October Burger Kings in Japan were selling Windows 7 Whopper burgers to celebrate the arrival of Microsoft’s Windows 7 operating system.
What amazes me is that someone at a PR firm thought this was a good idea, and even more remarkably, people at Microsoft agreed. Companies pay millions to be associated with certain sports stars or actors, why would Microsoft want to link itself to something quite so noxious. The campaign could almost have had the tagline “Want system failure and fatal errors, try Windows 7”.
Maison Hermès Window Display in Ginza, Tokyo
Fantastic installation by Tokujin Yoshioka at the Hermès store in Ginza.








